Beauty basics 3

Feed Your Skin the Nutrients It Needs
Three days until your 20th high school reunion. There's no time for a facelift, but you needn't sweat it, says dermatologist Nicholas Perricone, M.D., who promises to have your sallow, dull complexion looking lustrous in as little as 72 hours.

No surgery required—you need only eat the right foods to rejuvenate your skin and take years off your look, Perricone says, and for a more dramatic antidote to tired-looking skin, follow the diet and his recommended regimen of nutrient-rich face creams.

Perricone, an assistant clinical professor of dermatology at the Yale University School of Medicine and author of "The Wrinkle Cure", is not alone in focusing on nutrition as a path to healthy, radiant skin. Hope is growing in the scientific community that the aging process can be slowed, and maybe even reversed, with vitamins.

The shining stars in the scientific race against wrinkles: antioxidants such as vitamins A, C and E. Antioxidants have the potential to overwhelm destructive molecules called "free radicals," which live in every cell of the body and can destroy the skin tissue.

Eat Your Fruits and Vegetables—and Fish
To support healthy skin (and hair and nails, as well), experts agree that certain vitamins and minerals are essential, including:

Vitamin C—This vitamin is critical for strong, healthy skin because of its role in the body's manufacture of collagen, a protein that keeps the skin supple and tight. Even a slight deficiency can compromise the production of collagen.
Vitamin E—The vitamin is thought to help in the fight against free radicals, though deficiency of vitamin E is not known to cause any disease.
Thiamine—This B vitamin is important in ensuring normal cellular function in the skin.
Zinc—Normal epidermal cell growth is reliant on this mineral.
Selenium—This mineral is critical in the production of glutathione, a natural enemy of free radicals.

In most cases, these vitamins and minerals are ingested into the body without any extra effort. Many fruits and vegetables, for example, are loaded with antioxidant vitamins such as A, B, C, and beta carotene.

Says Nick Lowe, M.D., a clinical professor of Dermatology at the UCLA School of Medicine and author of "Skin Secrets: The Medical Facts Versus the Beauty Fiction,"

"If you eat a normal, balanced diet and take vitamin and mineral supplements, that should be more than adequate, and assuming you don't smoke, the skin is a remarkably resilient organ."

True, says Perricone, it's simply about "eating the way we were told." Leaving nothing to chance, however, Perricone specifies the contents of his healthful diet: high-protein foods, antioxidant-rich carbohydrates, and essential fatty acids (found in fish, olive oil and some nuts).

The diet is aimed at reducing skin inflammation, explains the dermatologist, because it's inflammation that makes skin look dull and wrinkled, makes pores appear larger, and causes discoloration of the skin.

Perricone's ideal skin-healthy meal would include a six-ounce serving of fresh grilled salmon, a romaine lettuce salad with lemon juice and olive oil for a dressing, and fresh cantaloupe.

Getting through to your skin
Even if you take in the suggested daily amounts of vitamins and minerals, your skin might not get enough nutrients to be at its fighting best when confronting ruinous free radicals. Because it is thought that only one percent or so of vitamins and trace elements ingested through food becomes available to the skin, topical face creams have been developed as a more direct route to supplying the skin with nutrients.

The face creams are often referred to as "cosmeceuticals"—they are like pharmaceuticals in that they are sold for quasi-medical benefits, beyond mere aesthetic improvements, and are like cosmetics in that they are not intended to treat or prevent disease and don't need FDA's approval before being sold. Nutrient-based skin creams that have been extensively studied include:

Retinoids—Probably the best-known retinoid is Retin-A (tretinoin). These members of the vitamin A family have been shown to effectively rejuvenate sun-damaged skin. Though some versions are sold over the counter, retinoids are most effective—and quite possibly only effective—in prescription strengths.
Antioxidants—The antioxidant vitamins A, C and E are commonly included in skin creams to counter the damaging effects of free radicals. A recent study suggests that these types of topical vitamins can indeed protect the skin, providing a break from fighting UV rays and even allowing the skin to repair its own lines and wrinkles to some degree.

Dermatologist Perricone's skin cream recommendations for "beautiful skin for the rest of your life" include these cosmeceuticals: an alpha lipoic face cream (designed to increase circulation and achieve a healthy glow); alpha lipoic eye therapy with vitamin C ester eye therapy (to reduce eye puffiness and erase dark circles); and concentrated vitamin C ester cream containing DMAE, short for dimethylaminoethanol (to tighten and smooth the skin).

Because cosmeceutical manufacturers can sell their products without FDA approval based on a showing that the product is safe and effective and its claims truthful, it's up to consumers to decide for themselves if product claims are believable.

"The problem with cosmeceuticals and their claims," says dermatologist Lowe, "is that proof with controlled studies is largely missing in the industry." Considering using a cosmeceutical product but have some doubts? Talk to your dermatologist, Lowe recommends.


Diet Do's for Glowing Skin
Long for smooth, supple skin to go along with that slimmer waistline? Then step up to the plate — of salmon and asparagus, that is — to get a double shot of good effect. Living on some more typical low-fat meals, on the other hand, will ravage your body and your brain, leaving you wrinkled as well as fat and fatigued, according to dermatologist Nicholas Perricone, M.D.

Eating right can improve our looks "to a tremendous extent," says Perricone, an expert on eating your way to superb skin. On his anti-inflammation diet, his patients start to look younger — and what's more, their acne clears up and their eczema improves. If you long to look better, too, know the elements of Perricone's "wrinkle-free diet."

Eat generous portions of the right kinds of protein
Protein is necessary for cell repair and helps keep aging in check. On the best-choices list, fish ranks first, followed by these other protein-packed animal products: egg whites, skinless chicken and turkey breast.

Don't fear fat — believe it or not, some is healthy — even essential
Fats and oils can provide anti-inflammatory protection and youth-preserving antioxidants. Fatty fish provides hefty helpings of anti-aging omega-3 fatty acids; salmon, mackerel and albacore tuna are among your best bets for staying beautiful. Also tops among anti-inflammatories: extra virgin olive oil. It'll make you look lovely, and meanwhile could lower your bad cholesterol.

Steer clear of inflammation-inducing sugar and high-glycemic carbohydrates
This category of food includes potatoes, rice and pasta. These foods can cause blood sugar to spike and lead to dangerous chemical changes in your body. Their ability to fuel creation of age-accelerating free radicals and to break down collagen has earned them high rank among skin's greatest foes. Your body needs carbohydrates, though, so get your fill from low-glycemic fruits and vegetables. Choice picks run from arugula to zucchini — they're packed with youth-preserving antioxidants.

Know three more keys to the Perricone plan: Drink water, drink water, drink water
At the risk of repeating himself, the doctor himself drinks glass after glass — eight to 10 glasses of water each day, he reports, to help his own organs and cells function efficiently. Spring water's better than the kind from the tap with all its chlorine and heavy metals.

Perricone's system of eating and drinking your wrinkles away is a way of life for some youth seekers, but if you're not interested in a long-term commitment just yet, the doctor provides quick-fix remedies for those in a rush to look radiant for a reunion or other occasion. Have a special day scheduled for this Saturday? Start Wednesday morning eating fish at least twice a day — by the fourth day, Perricone promises, "The dark circles will be gone, and you'll look radiant and amazing."

Diet not doing enough for your taste? Consider trying antioxidant creams — Perricone says they feed your face and body the extra vitamins (including A, C and E) that you need to extend your youth.


Natural Cosmetics - Do They Bring Hype or Hope?
Should you consider the switch to all-natural cosmetics? Here's what you need to know.

First, department store make-up counters are known to use engaging promotional ploys. Big-time brand names command high prices and compete with big promises.

Enter the "naturals" to health food stores and the Internet. You'll recognize them by words like "organic" and "holistic." Are these features worth it in cosmetics? Or is it hype?

According to Dr. Roberta Palestine, who did her residency in dermatology at the Mayo Clinic, "It really is marketing hype. Natural isn't always better. Synthetic isn't necessarily worse."

"Poison ivy is natural, but that certainly doesn't make it good," Palestine adds. "A chemical is a chemical," she says, "what matters is your skin type.

"If you're prone to acne, learn to read labels. If your skin is more mature, you need moisturizing ingredients," Palestine tells consumers. Others need to prevent allergies.

She points out that "hypoallergenic" means it is free of offending ingredients. It does not mean a product will prevent break-outs or acne.

Testing Your Skin
If you suffer from allergies, ask your dermatologist for the newer, more extensive patch testing. It goes beyond the basic 24 chemicals. This pinpoints the exact chemicals that are problematic for you. Then find out which products use them and avoid them.

"Many so-called natural products use exotic ingredients, but they are really functioning as high-priced moisturizers," says Palestine. There are many fine humectants, the ingredients that bind water to skin, in products at all price ranges.

Common humectants you might find include: glycerin; maltitol syrup; mannitol; propylene glycol and sorbitol.

She advises that more women should adjust the consistency of their skincare products with the season. "Use creamier products for winter, then lotions in the summer," says Palestine.

Even Linda Collinson of LaCrista, an online natural skincare company agrees there are plenty of natural skincare claims that "are alot of bunk."

A self-taught chemist who started her company because she was allergic to everything says, "Plain and simple is often better.

"Look at the top of the ingredient list because they are ranked in order of volume," says Collinson. Be sure the best ingredients are on the top of the list.

Keep the list, which is usually on the box you throw away, so if a product irritates you will know what was in it.

Cosmetics in the Kitchen
Some of Collinson's favorite all-natural skincare regimes are in your kitchen, such as her oatmeal scrub.

Put oatmeal into a coffee grinder and then add powdered milk. Keep a jar of this dry mix in your shower for sloughing off dead skin cells while you shower. It's very soothing," Collison says.

"Lemons can bleach age spots," she adds, "and yogurt with salt is a great scrub for oily skin."

Many women don't realize how irritated their skin is with synthetic, artificial chemicals until they make the switch to natural lines. "Women get used to dry, broken out, scaly, tight, itchy, blotchy skin when it is not normal. It should have a glow, some color," warns Collinson who uses no foundation at all.

"You should switch 100% if you want to go with all-natural products," she says, so your skin goes through its two-week adjustment just once.

"If you think your skin is sensitive, avoid fragrances, alcohol, FD&C colors, mineral oil and formaldehyde," she warns. "Mineral oil is everywhere and the more you use, the drier your skin will get.

Natural Products Scutinized
"Be an educated consumer because price has nothing to do with quality," Collison says. Know that "all-natural" products have gone through more rigorous regulations to make the claim than products that say "natural."

It took 10 years for the U.S. Department of Agriculture to finalize its rules on organic products. Products labeled as "made with organic ingredients" must have at least 70 percent organic ingredients. With this percentage, the U.S. rules are now in line with those of Europe.

Beyond either of these "natural" classifications are the "organic" skincare products that might include, among other items, strawberry, rosemary, curled mint, aloe vera, mulberry, lavender oil, ylang ylang and iris.

Susan West Kurz, president of the Dr. Hauschka products in the United States says, "We're beyond natural. We take a holistic approach. "We believe your skin is a perfect cosmetic on its own. It rebuilds. Moisturizes. Protects itself," says Kurz. "We treat skin holistically, not symptomatically."

The Dr. Hauschka line, which used items such as witch hazel and St. John's Wort, relies on "biodynamic" growing methods to create its own ingredients from organic farms in Turkey, Bulgaria and other parts of Europe.

"Skincare is preventative healthcare, not a luxury anymore," adds Kurz. "It should be nurturing, aesthetically pleasing but necessary for your health."

When asked whether artificial and synthetic ingredients really cause harm, Kurz points out: "Often you can't prove a problem until the damage is done.

"There's a place for synthetics, for example if a teenager needs steroids or medicinal treatments for acne because her condition causes psychological problems," Kurz adds, "but not for six years."

Questions You Should Ask
Consumers should ask these questions, warns Kurz. Where do the ingredients come from? Do they cause environmental damage? Are there short and long-term effects? What are the economics around the product?

Whether you choose natural or synthetic products you can be certain they've been scrutinized by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review, a non-profit scientific group and comply with FDA and other regulations.

Most producers are members of the Cosmetic, Toiletry & Fragrance Association www.ctfa.org, which offers a Buyer's Guide to help consumers track the 10,000 ingredients and 40,000 trade names. The site also answers Internet rumors about hazardous products.